Vacations are a funny concept. Growing up middle class, vacations usually consisted of loading up in a car with my entire family (six people in all) and driving to some destination for the purpose of relaxation plus usually some ulterior motive like a business opportunity for my dad. Basically something like Little Miss Sunshine minus the quirkiness and soft lighting, so basically like National Lampoon‘s Family Vacation. Most people go on vacation for the purpose of looking at sights, (often sights that are as fascinating as things in their own city) taking pictures of said sights, eating, drinking and shopping. Families actually save money and set aside time so that once a year they can buy junk and look at things in a different locale than where they usually buy junk and look at things. And we often call this “fun” little journey a “trip.” And it is a trip in the colloquial sense of the word. It’s a stimulating, short-lived experience that messes with your head. I can’t say that my and Laurel’s trip to Hong Kong was life-changing, but it was definitely a trip.
Tune in, turn on, drop out
The night before our journey began my school held a staff party. Staff parties are usually something I try to avoid, but I was actually looking forward to seeing a bunch of people who never go out (the Chinese staff) get hammered. It turned out to be a disappointment. The buffet was ludicrous and the Chinese staff stayed relatively sober, not to mention the fact that I finished second in the beer drinking competition. I left around midnight, pretty drunk from the lack of caloric intake plus eight pints, and went to another bar with some co-workers (none of them were Chinese). By two a.m. I was in my bed. Of course I hadn’t packed yet.
The next morning Laurel and I had our usual difficulty getting out of bed [Ever since winter started, it’s been hell to wake up on time. Our Chinese class ended two weeks ago, so reasons to actually leave the bed are suddenly scarce.]. We left the dormitory at noon to make our two o’clock flight on time. It took thirty minutes to find a taxi and when we did finally locate one, he was carrying a passenger who needed to be driven into the middle of the city. We arrived at the airport at one fifteenish. We made the flight on time, but both of us suffered several near heart attacks.
The plane touched down in Shenzhen [Shenzhen is a popular city to fly into when going to Hong Kong. From there you can get to Hong Kong by bus, subway or ferry. I suggest subway which is the method we used to return to Shenzhen.] at four o’clock. We then caught a bus to Hong Kong and arrived in the city around eight o’clock. We checked into our hostel at Chunking Mansions [Featured in the film Chungking Express, Chunking Mansions is a gigantic building consisting of around twenty or more hostels. There are three “blocks.” We stayed in Block A the first two nights and Block B the last four nights. There is no discernible difference between the blocks. I forgot to mention that the moment you step foot in front of Chunking Mansions you will be offered a suit, a watch and every drug known to man. This is in no way an exaggeration and it's actually quite annoying after the second day when you've been accosted for the four hundredth time.]. We asked the concierge/owner (concierge is obviously a generous title for a hostel owner, but he was a really nice guy), Peter, what to do and he outfitted us with a map, circled the hotspots and warned us to steer clear of the “girl’s bars.” He meant the bars that were gigantic whore houses. We went anyway of course, but we’ll come to that. We said goodnight to Peter and took hold of the city.
Sight-Seeing
I always tell people I’m a bad tourist and usually I take a strange pride in saying this, because I can’t stand when people go to a city and try to experience it by seeing some landmark that all of its residents ignore on a daily basis. Tourism is kind of stupid in that regard. I’ve always been more of a fan of getting drunk and wandering through a city. It’s what I did whenever I went to San Francisco during college, including the time I went with Laurel. So needless to say, we didn’t see to many sights. Luciano lent me his camera before he went to Austria for the holidays, so I snapped some photos. We went to the Hong Kong Arts Center, but it was closed by the time we made it [The journey to get to Hong Kong Arts Center lasted around two hours. We couldn’t find the thing to save our lives and we kept getting turned around. Hong Kong has an amazing subway system, but you still have to walk a lot because each station is like it’s own little city with multiple exits that allow you to choose which area of the district you want to enter. It can be very confusing.].
Laurel had mentioned a gondola ride that I flat out refused to do (I‘m scared of heights), but I told him I would come along with him. We went on the third day. The gondola trip lasts an hour and takes you past some points of interest like the world’s largest iron Buddha and some other novelty sights. At various points during our vacation Laurel and I would ask each other if we were making the most of the trip; shouldn’t we be seeing more tourist attractions? Aren’t we wasting our time sitting in coffee shops and getting drunk every night? I had one of these bouts of guilt/anxiety as I sat at Starbucks reading a book and waiting for Laurel. I had lent him my camera, but I started to think what was the point? Those pictures weren’t my experience. My god, what was wrong with me? Why not just hand the camera over to any Tom, Dick or Harry I might see and ask them to snap photos for a couple days? Then, I could pick it up later. It didn’t help that the entire time I felt like I also needed to pee, but sometimes you’re so worried you can’t use the bathroom. Not to mention that there was a cute girl sitting across from me who was obviously also waiting for someone. I thought of going over and introducing myself, maybe making a joke about both of us waiting for someone, but instead I glanced at her over my book every three minutes. She was into it.
When Laurel finally returned he explained that not only had I not missed anything, but that he had regretted going on the gondola the moment it left the station. He also was unable to figure out the camera, thanks in part to my brief thirty second tutorial, and so my guilt was alleviated, having no pictures for which to feel bad. According to Laurel, the best part of the trip was when an Australian man called his mother from the gondola via Skype and Laurel said hello to her. After that we swore off sight-seeing, although we toyed with the idea of going to Sun Yat-sen Museum and the unfortunately named Repulse Bay, but we managed to come up with excuses for not doing either of those things.
Eating
I tend to regard eating as a bodily function. I’m awfully primal about it in fact. It’s like I have no taste buds. Laurel is man who enjoys a good meal, but is by no means a foodie. At any rate, we both ate like gluttons in Hong Kong. Our first meal in Hong Kong was like the feeling of the come up on whatever drug, when the music starts and suddenly you realize that you can see vibrations. Over the course of six days we had Peking duck, pizza, kebab, burgers, curry, dim sum. I know that in Los Angeles I could drive down almost any street and see all that variety, but Laurel and I hadn’t eaten like that in months. Months! One day we ate five times and none of those times were snacks. The final meal was a mammoth burger and a bucket of fries that I ended up eating myself. We felt a little guilty after that, but we knew what it would be like once we returned to Nanjing [I’ve been here for less than twelve hours and all I’ve eaten is two servings of instant noodles because everything is closed for Chinese New Year. I should have eaten fifteen burgers that night and lived off of the fat for the next week.]. It’s tough to say what the best meal was (I might be partial to the Peking duck we ate the first night), but it’s easy to say what the worst was. We ate a Japanese meal one night with a person Laurel knew through about three or four degrees of separation.
The meal was incredibly expensive and did nothing for us in the way of satisfying our hunger. Instead of a menu there were ten or so cards with different categories of food on them: mostly skewers and ramen. We had to order two or three times and the service was slow, but that wasn’t really the problem. I don’t really care about bad service, I care more about bad company and it was painfully obvious within about ten minutes that Laurel’s “friend” didn’t have too much in common with us. We knew that he worked as a consultant and after spending a couple days in Hong Kong we knew what that meant. Hong Kong is essentially New York minus the culture and most of the grime. It’s just Wall Street. Everyone is flying around at an incredible clip, wearing nice suits and designer heels and talking on blackberrys and iphones and what have you. It’s kind of incredible to watch, especially when these same people get drunk, but it’s nothing I would want to do for a living. So we knew what to expect from the Consultant, but even still it bothered me mainly because there was no reason to dislike him. He was so pleasant and nice and had a nice story for every little thing that you might say and he wasn’t objectionable or disagreeable in any way. Just fucking pleasant. So we spent three hours talking to this suit with a pulse and afterwards I had to sit down, smoke a cigarette and collect my thoughts before I could even think about going anywhere. It was a strangely taxing experience. It’s not a knock on business people, it’s a knock on people who are lacking an indescribable quality. Later in the trip Laurel and I both realized that neither one of us could remember what he looked like. All we could remember was a grin and a bunch of words.
Drinking
We drank every night until four in the morning or later. We had no choice. Also, we thought that it was strange for us to have a vacation because our day-to-day lives are not very stressful. We figured we had to really amp it up a notch in order to truly be on a vacation. Here are some snippets of six days of perpetual drunkenness.
“Sex is everything like money is everything…” - Laurel. This was overheard by some girls who stopped in their tracks. We greeted them and asked them to join in the conversation, but they said they had sex, they didn’t talk about it. It would have been a good burn if they were attractive.
“We’re rockstars” - Hardy. A pep talk I was giving myself and Laurel so that we would do the right thing and get drunk for the third night in a row. This night was the same night we met a guy from Canada named Conrad and a fella from South Carolina named Holden. Both unique names, the latter one all but forcing Laurel to buy Catcher in the Rye the following day and reread it, something he had been meaning to do.
“I had to huff your dick fumes all night long.” I’m not explaining this one.
“Dance you fucking [racial epithet for a Chinese person].” -Anonymous. I was appalled as you are.
There are essentially three areas to drink in Hong Kong according to everyone we asked. There’s an area by Central Subway station called Lan Kwai Fong and an area by Wan Chai Station. Also there are a decent number of bars by Chungking Mansions, but they usually have less tourists and more locals. Laurel and I spent an even number of time at all three locales. Lan Kwai Fong is by far the swankiest in terms of prices, atmosphere and clientele. Lots of European chic and high heels [I don’t care if I never see a pair of high heels again. Sure they look good, but there is a direct, exponential relationship to the height of heels and the amount of bitch in a given person.]. Everybody in Hong Kong is incredibly well-dressed, but they’re all wearing the same thing. If I saw a girl wearing pumps or flats or canvas shoes, I almost went insane. Anyway, our Lan Kwai Fong protocol was to buy a beer or two at a bar that wasn’t in the middle of the storm, and then by tall cans from seven-eleven and watch the parade of idiocy. A lot of middle-aged people awkwardly dancing or guys and girls our own age acting like they were in their thirties. The third time we went there we left and went somewhere else. It was getting depressing.
The area by Wan Chai station was cool except for the whores. [I had gotten all upset about a prostitute over in the other area of the city because I couldn’t understand why she was a working girl. It wasn’t like I had never seen a prostitute before, but this one affected me and I asked her why she was working. She said she needed the money, but I thought she could have landed one of the suits and drained him for a couple months. Better to be a gold-digger I thought. I mention this because once I went to Wan Chai I didn’t feel bad about any one of the girls on that stretch and it‘s a strange contradiction I can‘t explain.] There’s about ten bars on this street, Lockhart St that is, and the women working the door will physically grab you to get you to come inside and when you do, you realize it’s a big mistake. I convinced Laurel to go in one night because I was curious even though he told me it was stupid (He had been to Hong Kong before). He was more than right. We got inside and bought a beer and then they asked us if we would buy the girls a round. We said no and after about thirty seconds, we left, our beers still full. A complete waste of time. The first night in Wan Chai we stood next to a bar drinking tall cans. That was where we met Holden and Conrad. The second night we walked all up and down the area but there wasn’t much going on that night. All in all we had a good time. We talked to some girls, made fun of people, laughed like idiots. The usual.
Shopping
I hate shopping. When I need something I go get it. This is a common trait of most men, but I really hate it. It produces an anxiety in me that didn’t exist when I was younger. I don’t know what changed, but shopping malls make me angry. Hong Kong is the wrong place to be if shopping makes you angry. You’ve never seen malls like these. Malls with seven or eight floors and a couple hotels inside. And there’s like ten of these kinds of malls. They’re massive and crowded and impossible to navigate without asking for help. We didn’t spend too much time in the malls, both Laurel and I are not very good for that kind of thing, but there were a couple purchases we had to make.
Laurel wanted an ipad, so we went to a mall called IFC and found the only Apple store in Hong Kong. It’s two stories and has a view of Repulse Bay, so that while Laurel got his free setup, I enjoyed the most touristy activity of my trip: reading the newspaper and looking out at Repulse Bay from the Apple store window.
A couple days later we went to Mang Kok (HAHA) subway station to buy some Vans at the only Vans store in Hong Kong. This was a Saturday and the mall was packed. The street outside the mall was packed so much so that when we finally did leave the mall we got on the subway because it was too crowded to find a coffee shop. We found the Vans store after going up six escalators and fighting our way through a crowd of people taking their picture with a pink dragon [Okay, so we stopped and took our pictures too.]. And wouldn’t you know it, they only had size eleven. In all of Hong Kong! Size eleven! I had been waiting for months to come here and buy shoes that fit. Laurel and I fantasized about what they do to people who are born with feet bigger than size eleven (“Sorry Larry, but that foot is going to have to be chopped in half”), before realizing that those people just didn’t buy Vans. Poor bastards. We were so flustered that we practically ran downstairs for a cigarette only to discover that there was a movie theater on the eighth floor. We both wanted to see a movie and we knew there was only one way to find out was playing. Of course when we got upstairs, the best movie playing was the new Muppet movie, but neither of us were drunk so we didn’t see it.
Of course most of the shopping Laurel and I did was at bookstores. We even managed to find a used bookstore where Laurel found a book by Alice Munro, an author I had been compulsively searching for all over Hong Kong. I read the entire collection of short stories in two days. Laurel finished Catcher in the Rye as well, so it was a productive trip. There’s that word again.
The Come Down
I don’t think I left anything out. We saw the new Almodovar film. It sucked. He’s great though, but this new one stinked. In my notes I wrote down that sparkling water is nonsense. It is. Hong Kong is a cool place to visit for three days. Don’t go there for six days. You’ll get bored unless you’re the type that enjoys taking photos and spending egregious amounts of money to look at iron Buddhas and the world’s largest pudding pop (To my knowledge this is not actually in Hong Kong). Also, Hong Kong is expensive. Especially if you’re used to Mainland China prices. It was like jumping into a cold pool… if you’re really hot beforehand. Oh, I did forget to mention the entire purpose of the trip. I got a new visa, like a passport visa. I guess I lost track of what was important. The last day we were there was pretty mild by the way. We ate dim sum for lunch and then took two trains to the Shenzhen airport where we luckily found a Costa Coffee that was open so that we didn’t have to go hungry for another four hours. We arrived at our dorm around eleven thirty and we immediately realized how good we had it in Hong Kong. Never mind the expenses and the go-go corporate lifestyle and the dick fumes. Never mind any of it. Hong Kong was nice. But you know, as I type this in a coffee shop were there are only fifteen other people and most of them are also writing, it’s kind of nice to be back in Nanjing. Plus I can smoke indoors again, so take that Hong Kong.